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Review: Aamans Establishment, Copenhagen

Review: Aamans Establishment, Copenhagen

I wanted to try traditional Danish cuisine and after much research opted for lunch at Aamans Establishment on a Sunday afternoon.

Aamans Establishment

Aamans is a Michelin recommended chain famous for its smørrebrød or open-faced sandwich and has a very reasonably priced lunch special (315,00 DKK pp/ 35.82 GBP) along with a classic schnapps menu.

We didn’t go to the main Aamans branch in the city centre and had quite a hurried journey from the Design Museum to make our midday booking. I was expecting the restaurant to be located in an area with plenty of foot traffic, but was surprised to find it tucked inconspicuously by the side of a main road.

Aamans Establissment had a no-nonsense European style and was pretty empty (but mostly booked) by the time we arrived. 

There was an odd decoration or two that stood out.

Aamans Establishment
Odd

The staff taking our order was very patient and friendly when she explained the lunch special menu to us and we ordered two schnapps each (currency amount=”55″ from=”DKK” to=”GBP” iso=true between=” pp/ ” append=”” round=false]) based on her recommendation.

Aamans Establishment
Herbal shot

It tasted like a herbal shot and its spicy undertones burnt me; causing a bout of coughing. This was a pretty hardcore drink to start the meal and frankly not my favourite.

We both ordered the lunch special and this was essentially a selection of Aamans’ dishes in six smaller servings. Note that they won’t serve this if the whole table doesn’t order the lunch special.

The food came very artistically arranged in individual bowls along with organic homemade bread.

The bread was nice enough and was hard with crispy edges. 

We started with the Christiansø marinated herring with grilled plums, fresh cheese and onions:

The sweetness from the plums mixed well with the herring and there was a slight fishy aftertaste. The mild cheese calmed the sweet and tart flavours well.

New potatoes with smoked mayo, pickled onions and fresh herbs:

Aamans Establishment
New potatoes

The cold potatoes were very buttery light with a garlic flavouring; the watercress really added to the texture.

Cold smoked salmon with pickled fennel, buttermilk mayo and fennel crudité:

Aamans Establishment
Cold smoked salmon

I found the salmon very peppery and the onions dry. Although the cut of the fish was fat, the fish wasn’t juicy at all and it was the biggest disappointment for me. 

Chicken salad with celeriac and apples:

Aamans Establishment
Chicken salad

The chicken went well with mayo and the apple was very refreshing. Although the celery was dry this added a bit of crunch to the dish.

Beef Tartare with blackberries, tarragon emulsion and hazelnuts:

Aamans Establishment
Beef Tartare

This tasted less like raw meat, more like a herbal dish and had a bacon aftertaste. The emulsion was very light and weak and the hazelnut and raspberry added a crunchiness. It was a very unexpected flavour and a bit odd.

Cauliflower gratin with matured cheese and grated truffle:

Aamans Establishment
Cauliflower gratin

This cauliflower dish had a nice crispy top and was very smooth, cheesy and comfortingly warm. This went well with the smoky truffle.

The apple pudding with caramelised apple compote, apple sorbet and mascarpone:

The dessert was definitely my favourite. The mascarpone was foamy, the compote juicy, the caramel swirl was crunchy and overall the dish was nicely chilled and tasty.

The meal was overall a mixed experience. Although the dishes were all certainly interesting with plenty of experimentation with taste and texture, I found many of the combinations overly complicated and not to my palate. Maybe I’m just not a Michelin kind of person?

However this was certainly a Danish experience at a reasonable (for Copenhagen) price and Aamans Establishment gets a weak recommendation from me.

The overall meal for two costed 885,00 DKK / 100.65 GBP with the schnapps costing 110,00 DKK / 12.51 GBP, the water being 50,00 DKK / 5.69 GBP, 630,00 DKK / 71.65 GBP for the set lunch and 95,00 DKK / 10.80 GBP for the dessert.

Details

Aamanns Establishment

Website: https://aamanns.dk/etablissement/?lang=en

Address: Øster Farimagsgade 12, 2100 København Ø, Denmark

Opening hours: 12:00 – 17:00

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